Apron flashing
The base flashing on the front is renewed lapped over the shingles below.
A Paramus roofer can rebuild the flashing around a leaking chimney so the joint between brick and shingles sheds water on its own, and check whether the crown or brick is part of the problem. One call to (551) 383-2304 reaches a nearby roofer who handles chimney flashing.
Few places on a roof leak as often as the gap around a chimney. The brick and the roof framing move independently as the house settles and seasons change, so the seal between them has to allow for movement. Tar and caulk alone cannot handle that movement for long.
Proper chimney flashing has four main parts. An apron covers the downhill face, step flashing pieces weave in with the shingles along both sides, a back pan or cricket handles the uphill side, and counter flashing set into the mortar joints laps down over everything. Counter flashing is the piece that most often fails or is skipped, replaced by surface-mounted metal and a bead of caulk.
Before replacing flashing, it helps to know whether the chimney above the roof is letting water in. Brick and mortar absorb rain, and a cracked crown or open joints can let water travel down through the masonry to the roof line. Sorting out which one is leaking avoids paying for the wrong repair.
Many chimney flashing repair calls in Paramus also turn up a need for flashing repair or roof leak repair.
Need chimney flashing repair in Paramus? Call (551) 383-2304 and describe the problem to a roofer who works in Paramus.
Call nowThe work follows the path water takes, front to back.
Before anything comes off, the roofer checks the flashing, the brick, the crown and the wood around the chimney. If the masonry is clearly the source, the roofer will say so.
Shingles around the chimney are removed along with the old flashing, tar and caulk. Rotted sheathing next to the chimney is cut out and renewed.
After a self-adhered membrane wraps the base of the chimney, the apron goes on the downhill face and step pieces are woven up both sides with new shingles. The step flashing is nailed to the roof deck only, never to the brick.
On the uphill side, a back pan or saddle is fitted, and on wider chimneys a cricket is framed to split the water around it. Building codes call for a cricket behind chimneys wider than about thirty inches across the slope.
A groove is cut into the mortar, and the counter flashing is set into it, either in one piece or stepped to follow the slope. The overlap allows movement while keeping water out.
The base flashing on the front is renewed lapped over the shingles below.
Water-damaged wood at the chimney is cut out so the shingles have solid nailing.
Step pieces up both sides of the chimney are replaced lapped so water runs downhill.
A saddle diverts water around the uphill side so water cannot pond against the brick.
Counter flashing is set into ground-out mortar joints instead of caulked to the face.
Replacing the flashing outright is the better choice when patches keep failing or the metal has corroded. Patching a system that was installed wrong rarely works, because the problem is in how the pieces overlap. It is also the right moment to add a cricket or back pan.
The metal choice matters around masonry. Copper is a long-lasting choice for counter flashing, while aluminum needs protection from contact with lime in the mortar. Matching the metal to the masonry avoids early corrosion.
Leaks around a chimney have two main sources: the flashing at the roof and the masonry above it. Flashing leaks show up during rain at the roof line, often worse on the uphill side, while masonry leaks can appear on any side and may continue for a while after the rain stops as soaked brick drains. Hose testing each side and then the chimney top separately settles the question.
If the masonry is the source, the fix may involve the crown, the cap or the brick. A cracked crown needs sealing or rebuilding, a missing cap lets rain straight down the flue, and porous brick can be treated with a breathable water repellent made for masonry. The roofer can spot many of these from the roof and tell you who should fix them.
Chimney flashing calls in Paramus come mostly from older brick chimneys that have been reflashed with tar more than once. Across Paramus and nearby communities including Oradell, River Edge, Fair Lawn and New Milford, the chimney type decides the fix: masonry needs counter flashing cut into the brick, and a framed chase needs step flashing behind the siding, so expect the roofer to ask which type is on your house.
Searching for chimney flashing repair near me from Paramus or Oradell, River Edge, Fair Lawn and New Milford? Call (551) 383-2304 to talk to a roofer who works in your part of town.
Cold winters bring snow, ice and a long stretch of freezing nights. When warm attic air melts the snow, the meltwater runs down and freezes again at the eaves, which is how ice dams form and back water up under the shingles. Strong coastal storms push rain into every weak spot at the flashing and valleys. That is why roof repair in Paramus is busiest after a hard winter and before the next one.
A roof problem fixed early rarely spreads to the decking, the insulation or the ceilings.
Local roofers see the same roofs and storm damage across Paramus and nearby towns.
Ask the roofer about the cause, the options and the estimate before work starts.
More questions? Call (551) 383-2304
Flashing repairs at the joints where most roof leaks start, with new metal instead of another layer of caulk.
Learn moreStopping water at the pipe boots, flashing, valleys and nail holes where roofs actually leak, before wet decking and insulation turn into rot.
Learn morePinpointing where water actually enters a roof, even when the stain is far away, with a clear answer on roof leak versus condensation.
Learn moreSpot repairs for wind, hail and age damage on an asphalt shingle roof, before a small gap turns into a leak.
Learn moreLooking for something else?
See all roofing servicesCall (551) 383-2304 for a local roofer in Paramus and nearby towns.